​Bumble bees (Bombus spp) are superstars of the pollinator world. Their long work day, efficient pollen-transport structures, and ability to pollinate a wide variety of plants combine to make them true MVPs! But how (and where) do they spend the cold winter months?
Like honey bees, most species of bumble bee are eusocial (living in a cooperative group). However, unlike honey bee colonies that can live for many years, bumble bee colonies are annual, meaning that new colonies are started from scratch every year. Only the new, future queens will survive the winter. These special ladies (called gynes) will spend the autumn drinking a lot of nectar to build up their fat reserves. They will then mate and look for a safe place to spend the winter–usually a small hole in the ground, just big enough for one, called a hibernacula.
Once safely underground, the bee’s metabolic rate drops to conserve energy, and her body produces antifreeze compounds to protect her from the cold. She won’t eat or leave the nest until environmental cues let her know that spring has sprung!
The new queens will be very hungry after the long winter, so providing plenty of early-spring nectar resources is crucial to support a healthy population. The blooms of native trees, shrubs and spring ephemerals are just the ticket to provide the energy they need to build a new team of pollinating champions.
Sleep tight, ladies–spring is on the way!
Photo: © Heather Holm

Any Questions?
Question mark butterflies (Polygonia interrogationis) can be found throughout the eastern U.S., most often in open woods or woodland edges, parks, or older subdivisions where there are plenty of mature trees (looking at you, Tudek and Park Forest!) And amazingly, these beauties spend the winter in their adult form–at least, one generation does.
The summer generation (“Umbrosa”) emerge and frolic from May–September, laying eggs that develop into the winter generation (Fabricii”). These adults, which appear in late August, are generally considered short-distance migrants in Pennsylvania. Most will travel to southern counties to pass the cold months in various shelters, perhaps tucked away underneath loose tree bark or under the eaves of an outbuilding. (However, adults have occasionally been spotted in wintertime at the SBG!)
Unlike some species, the larvae of this beautiful butterfly aren’t too choosy: They can feed on a variety of host plants, including elm (Ulmus), hackberry (Celtis) and nettles (Urtica). The females don’t lay their eggs directly on the host plants, but on the leaves of others nearby, so the caterpillars must work a little harder to find their first meal!
The angular, hooked wings of the adult butterfly are bright reddish-orange at the top and darker near the bottom, with bold dark spots. The light-brown underwings resemble tree bark and provide excellent camouflage, and the common name derives from the pearly white ‘?’ shape located there.
Appearances can be deceiving, though–you’d never guess that this sweetly lovely butterfly isn’t that interested in nectar. Instead, the question mark has a more complex palate, seeking out rotting fruit, tree sap, carrion–or even poop! . Only when these are unavailable do question marks visit flowers for nectar. It might seem bizarre, but when we consider the food sources available to overwintering lepidoptera, Nature’s way makes perfect sense.
Like mourning cloaks, question marks can be seen flying very early in the spring, and during warm spells in January or February. Male question mark butterflies perch on leaves or tree trunks to watch for passing females, and may fly out to investigate insects, birds, or other critters (including us!) passing by. So keep your eyes open, and remember–it’s not always about the nectar!
For excellent photos of. larvae, chrysalides, and both adult generations, visit: https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/.../bfly/bfly2/question_mark.htm

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 As the snow melts, homeowners may begin to notice a network of ‘runways’ wreaking havoc on their lawns and flowerbeds. Some will blame moles for the damage, but an entirely different species is likely the culprit. 
Moles are fossorial (digging and living underground) and their activity forms raised tunnels. Voles (Microtus spp.) are semi-fossorial rodents that create mole-like runways in your yard, but rather than looking like tunnels they are open on the top. The Centre region’s prolonged winter snow cover benefitted their population last year. The ‘subnivean layer’ (the air space between the snowpack and the ground) provides cozy quarters as voles go about their business feeding–and breeding!-- all winter long. They eat seeds and nibble on the stems and leaves of grass–and possibly, your young native trees and shrubs! Although voles are an important part of the food web,  you may draw the line at this level of destruction. What’s the eco-aware gardener to do?
The good news is, February is an excellent time to get a head start on controlling their population.
Habitat modification practices: Remove thatch or mulch in areas that support voles, and clear mulch from flowerbeds or around the base of trees to a 3-foot radius. (Another good reason to ditch the mulch!)
Exclusion: Hardware cloth can be used to exclude voles from seedlings, trees and shrubs. The mesh size should not be any larger than ¼ inch and it may need to be buried about 6 inches to prevent voles from burrowing under. The same practice can help to protect vegetable gardens.
Trapping: Trapping can be effective in areas of small vole populations, and late winter is a good time to begin. Place mouse snap traps perpendicular to runways with the trap pan in the runway. Pieces of apple or peanut butter and oatmeal can be used as bait for voles, but a non-baited trap will also work if properly positioned in a high-traffic area.
As is often the case, observation of your garden–in all seasons– is the key to nipping problems in the bud. Take a walk around your garden, take note, and take action!  

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​The Gall of It
The winter landscape offers a chance to focus on interesting sights that are often hidden by the blooms of spring and summer. The brown, spent stems of goldenrod (Solidago spp.) may not seem to have much to offer at first glance–but a closer look reveals a fascinating life story!
The swollen area on this goldenrod stem is called a gall, and signals the presence of an invader– the goldenrod gall fly (Eurosta solidagnis), which has pierced the stem to lay its eggs. The eggs hatch in about a week and a half, and the larvae burrow deeper into the plant’s stem, feeding on the nutritious tissues within. In response to the larval insect’s feeding, the plant increases cell production at the site of injury, forming a gall that becomes apparent about 3 weeks after the eggs are laid. Initially the gall is the same size and color as the stem, but eventually grows to nearly the size of a golf ball.
By wintertime, the larvae are still there, but have now entered diapause, producing special chemicals (glycerol and sorbitol) to keep them from freezing. The gall itself helps to protect the larvae from predators such as birds throughout the winter. (If you spot a chickadee pecking away at a gall, you’ll know they’re wise to this strategy!.) Later in spring, the inconspicuous adult fly emerges from the gall. But even this process isn’t as simple as it might sound. Since they have no mouthparts, the adults can’t chew their way out of the gall; instead, they inflate a balloon-like structure between their eyes to push open the thin covering. Once outside they inflate their wings, and fly away to spend the rest of their lives (a whopping 10-14 days) mating and laying eggs to produce the next generation.
These harmless little flies are an important part of the food web, supporting not only birds but a type of beetle and several species of parasitoid wasps as well.
During your next winter walk, take a closer look–and imagine the drama unfolding, hidden in plain sight!
Photo: Lisa Schneider

​Resolution #4: Gardening is for the Birds
Many gardeners are bird lovers, and even those who aren't confirmed 'birders' enjoy watching our feathered friends in the garden throughout the bleak winter months, often with the aid of bird feeding stations. The rising price of birdseed and incidences of disease may discourage some from keeping those feeders topped up. Fortunately, there's an even better way to encourage birds to make your garden their winter home: Let your landscape do the work for you!
Ensure that your garden provides seasonal variety for birds. Seeds, fruits and nuts are essential for high-value winter food. During the nesting season in spring and summer, birds seek out protein-packed caterpillars, which are the perfect food for their young.( It takes up to 9,000 caterpillars to raise just one clutch of baby chickadees!) Providing plenty of host plants for caterpillars ensures that busy parents will find what they need in your landscape, and will encourage them to stay nearby.
Your garden is the best bird feeder that money can buy!
Photo: Patrice Bouchard

​Garden Resolution #3: Keep a record.
“Now where did I put that?” “What was this one called?”
If you see someone wandering around their garden in the spring, peering and muttering, it’s a good chance that they are expressing some variation of the above!
Today, it’s easier than ever to keep better garden records. Many people enjoy using a paper journal, where notes or sketches can be made. Others prefer the convenience of a photo journal, with pictures snapped on your phone. Various plant ID apps which store your observations are also available. Whichever method you choose, keeping track of your plantings and results can save time, effort and money.
In addition to improving organization, a garden journal can encourage you to spend more time simply observing your garden. As any practitioner of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) knows, observation is the key to heading off many pest and disease problems in their early, more manageable stages. For example, regular checks of your viburnum bushes will reveal when the larvae of viburnum leaf beetles appear, making it much easier to get on top of them before too much damage is done.
And if you’re one of those busy bees who feels slightly guilty just sitting and enjoying your garden–relax. You can always just call it IPM!
Photo: Pam Ford

​Garden resolution #2: Have a plan.
The avalanche of seed catalogs is well underway, and the gardener might be excused for feeling like ‘a kid in a candy store’–there are so many tempting choices! A little advance planning can help fend off overwhelm and buyer’s remorse.
Do a little reading, and learn about seeds/plants before you buy. Those catalog photos are alluring–but is it the right plant for the right place? Reputable seed companies will give a good description of the plant’s requirements, and these can be a good place to begin your research. Consider the conditions in your planting area–is your chosen plant likely to be happy there? You’ll enjoy more success (with less work) if you let the plant’s preferences be your guide.
Plan with pollinators in mind. In addition to appearance, what does each plant offer to native pollinators: Nectar?–pollen?–host plant? Also consider succession of bloom–pollinators need a continuous supply of food sources from early spring right through to frost.
With a little planning, your garden can offer a continuous show as well as a season-long pollinator buffet!

​New Year, New Leaf?
For many, the New Year offers a time of reflection, a chance to turn over a new leaf, and gardeners are no exception. But trying something new in the garden doesn’t have to mean buying all the latest hybrids! Instead, just changing the way we think about our garden can produce surprising results. During the month of January, we’ll be suggesting a few ‘garden resolutions’ to consider–starting with:
#1: Work with nature when possible, not against it!
So often, we fall into the habit of thinking of our garden as something to be subdued or coerced into doing our bidding. But many traditional garden tasks may actually be unnecessary! When we look for ways of working with the natural order of things, we find it’s possible to have a beautiful landscape that provides for pollinators, while simultaneously reducing extraneous labor.
For example, in the first warm days of spring, curb your enthusiasm–wait till the sustained warmth of April for spring clean-up. Over-wintering pollinators need time to wake up and move out!
Rather than covering every square inch of your planting beds with mulch, choose an area where you can leave bare ground for ground-nesting pollinator habitat. Remember that one inch of mulch is as impermeable as pavement to this large group of important pollinators. Rather than building ‘mulch volcanoes’ around the base of trees (which can actually harm the trees), use fallen leaves as mulch, spreading out to the drip line.
Native plants do a lot of work for the gardener. Once established, they’re drought-tolerant, and are generally resistant to most diseases and pests. In addition, they are the best sources of food and habitat for pollinators.
In fall, leave the leaves. Leaf litter provides winter shelter for a huge array of pollinators and other wildlife. Leave plant canes standing throughout the winter as nesting sites for cavity-nesting bees and other insects.
Remember–sometimes, less is more!
Happy New Year from the SBG.

​A Long Winter’s Nap
70% of all native bees are solitary bees, and of these, 30% are cavity nesters. This diverse array ranges from the diminutive mason bee (Osmia spp) to our gentle giant, the carpenter bee (Xylocopa spp).
Female cavity nesting bees are hard-working, since they are solely responsible for finding, constructing and provisioning their own nests. Once a suitable cavity has been located, the female will begin the task of constructing nest cells and provisioning each with a ball of pollen and nectar. A total of 15 to 40 foraging trips may be required to gather enough food to provision one cell, resulting in potentially thousands of flower visits– making them pollination super-stars as a result!
An egg is laid on top of this food supply, and each nest cell is sealed with a ‘wall’ of mud or plant material, creating a private nursery for each egg. When the egg hatches, the larvae will find all the food it needs close at hand. After pupating through the cold months, warm spring temperatures will signal the time for the new bees to emerge.
In the wild, cavity nesting bees make their homes beneath rock or bark crevices, in the hollow stems of pithy twigs, or in tunnels formed by wood-boring insects. However, modern preferences for tidy, manicured landscapes often leave these natural nesting sites in short supply. You might choose to offer a ‘bee hotel’ with pre-drilled holes, such as the one pictured, which can be found in our Native Bee Conservation area. Better yet, consider a pile of logs or rock pile in a corner of your garden, and leave plant stems standing throughout the winter. Cavity nesting bees will thank you for providing a cozy winter home!